SEARCH THIS BLOG AND WEB

FAQ: How Do I Tone My Very Light Highlights?

Question:
I use this formula to color my roots every 6 weeks using Redken Colorgels: 35 g 6 GN + 15 g 8GN + 20 volume cream developer. My hair gets processed for 30 minutes.  In addition I get highlights every 4-5 months. Now the highlights are too light. Can I use the same formula all over my hair and the highlights will turn darker? Or do I have to use a different formula to tone down the highlights?

Answer:
This is what I gather from your message: You color your hair medium-light brown most likely to cover some gray hair (at home?). You do not like just the flat color, so you then have it highlighted to a lighter shade. The shade seems too light.

Now here is where it gets little unclear to me (since I do not see your hair). I would need to know how is the application of highlights done, which can be done three ways:

  1. The colorist applies the lightener on the REGROWTH ONLY and makes it too light
  2. Your colorist applies the lightener on the ENTIRE HAIR SHAFT (from root to ends) and the root area highlighted for the first time is OK, but the anything that has been highlighted prior to 4-5 months gets lighter and the ends are the lightest
  3. Your colorist sometimes highlights only regrowth that has never been highlighted and when your hair needs blending every so often he/she applies the lightener on the entire shaft
If the highlighting is applied as described in number 1 - your colorist needs to cut down on processing time - bleach keeps lifting the color the longer as long as it stays on the hair, which could possibly solve your problem and your hair would be spared one extra step.

If the highlighting is applied as described in 2 - your colorist needs to apply the lightener only to the root area and if the color comes out the way you like it there will be no need for toner.

If the highlighting is applied as described in 3 - you need occasional toner (you can read about toner on this page).

Now finally to your question "how to fix the over lightened hair" - if you would apply the above mentioned formula as is, you would make your hair too dark. This is what I would do:
If I would like the base color (shade) of the above mentioned formula, I would mix probably 1/2 of the amount (of the above mentioned formula) and I would dilute it 50:50 with water (that means equal amounts of the formula and water, or shampoo for thicker consistency). This would make the formula less powerful. I would try to process my hair for about 5 minutes, then I would take a paper towel and wipe a bit of one of my strands (strand test) to see how the color is turning. If it would be still light, I would check again in another 5 minutes and so on. When I would achieve the desired shade/darkness I would shampoo my hair and condition it. If the hair is porous it will "suck" the tint in, yet after few shampoos it may release it.

Now if you would like a different shade than your original formula (mentioned above), you could get yourself a toner in a darker shade than your highlights, but a lighter shade than your original formula, and process your hair according to manufacturer. Then shampoo and condition your hair. 

Please, read the note below.


Credit: The above image is from hairstylesdesign.com website.



Note: 

This post should be taken as a first step for a discussion with your hairdresser and/or colorist about your ideas, desires or problems with your hair. Under no circumstances, you should act upon this post ONLY. I strongly advice you to have your hair done by a skilled and reputable hairdresser/colorist in your area.

2 comments:

  1. Thanks for the info. Wanted to give you more info. I do apply the color at a salon. (I moved from NY to India, and the formula and supplies I bring from NY, but they do not know Redken here) I do not have gray hair. The formula I use is lighter than my natural color. The reason why the ends are too light is because last time the colorist did the highlights all over(roots to end) instead of the roots only, as I usually get done back home in NY. I also have a toner formula using EQ Shades: 30 g clear, 3g 8WG, 10g 9AA, but right now is not making the highlights dark enough. So I think what you suggest to use the formula diluted with shampoo is the best idea.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I se. This changes my advice a bit. The formula for Shades EQ is rather in "warm" family (shade) and the the original formula for touch up is somewhat neutral with some gold to it - which actually makes your touched up roots end up in a warmer shades. Then you get highlights and those need to be toned down and given "proper shade".

    If you are using Shades EQ 8WG (Golden Apricot) and 9AA (papaya) and Clear, I think you could darken the toner (Shades EQ) by using 20g clear, 13g 8WG, and 10g 9AA.
    8WG is a slightly darker shade than 9AA, yet less vibrant than 9AA. The clear is a see through toner and is making the vibrancy of both colors less vivid.

    But please do a strand test first! I do not want to give you some formula and turn your hair funny color as I cannot see your hair in person. Also I do not have color swatches of Shades EQ. I am only writing this out of what would make sense, not because I may be 90-100% right. I have no idea how light your hair is and you should take precautions. I hope it will turn great.

    ReplyDelete

This blog is moderated. I must approve all comments (which are sent to me via e-mail automatically) in order to be visible on my blog.